Wrenching

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5SFE Rebuild

TRD Sway Bar

Strut Inserts

Crash Bolts

ABS Install

Alignment Tool

Strut Inserts - Installation

Removal | Disassembly | Re-assembly | Installation | Alignment

Removal
  1. Raise and support vehicle
  2. Remove wheels
  3. Remove engine cover side panels
  4. Free brake lines from strut housings (Toyota decided to make this difficult. In order to get the brake lines off the strut housings w/out cutting anything you have to unhook the brake lines=messy. So, what most people do is cut a section out of the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut, allowing the line to be removed w/out opening the line)
  5. Loosen center nut at top of strut (Probably under a cap, this is the nut that threads onto the top of the strut shaft--just untorque it, DO NOT REMOVE IT--this will make disassembly easier)
  6. Loosen two large nuts that connect bottom of strut to knuckle/carrier (Do not remove yet)
  7. Loosen 4 (front) or 3 (rear) nuts holding top of strut to chassis (access from under front hood or engine bay)
  8. Disconnect sway bar end link (I usually disconnect it at the sway bar)
  9. Remove bolts connecting strut to knuckle/carrier (Strut should now be hanging from 3 or 4 top nuts)
  10. While holding strut w/one hand, remove top nuts and remove strut assembly from car
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Disassembly
  1. Using a spring compressor, compress spring enough so there is no load on the strut (ALWAYS use a spring compressor--disassembling strut w/out one will cause parts to shoot across your garage at incredibly dangerous speeds)
  2. Remove top nut--the one you untorqued while on the car
  3. Remove top spring plate, spring, and bump stop (Remember which way these all go on, the spring and the spring plate are both directional)
  4. Remove gland nut--the big one at the base of the shaft. You will need to either hold the strut GENTLY in a vise or put a long wrench/pole through the lower nut holes to keep the strut from spinning while you try to loosen the gland nut. I use a large pipe wrench to loosen the gland nut, i'm not sure what diameter the nut is (If you have stock struts there will be a ton of fluid inside, if you have inserts already there may be a small amount of fluid around the insert)
  5. Remove strut internals/insert by pulling on shaft
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Re-assembly
  1. They should come with instructions--READ THEM NOW
  2. Leave some fluid from the old shock in the strut housing, this will act as a cooling agent for the new insert transferring heat to the housing and out to the air
  3. Insert new strut cartridge--allow excess fluid to run out, dry top of strut housing
  4. Put thread lock on gland nut and install using same method as removal--see instructions for torque specs
  5. Install spring, bump-stop, and spring plate (Make sure the notched shaft of the strut sits correctly in the spring plate, also make sure the spring and spring plate are on correctly and facing the right direction, then tighten the nut on top of the shaft to secure it there--you can torque it down once it's on the car--DON'T FORGET!)
  6. Release spring compressor and make sure spring is seated correctly against perch on housing and against top spring plate
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Installation
  1. Holding strut with one hand, guide studs on top of strut plate through holes in chassis, hand tighten 3 or 4 top nuts
  2. Insert knuckle/carrier into bottom of strut, insert 2 large bolts and hand tighten nuts
  3. Torque down top nut on shaft--the one you didn't torque above
  4. Torque down 3 or 4 nuts holding top of strut to chassis
  5. Torque down 2 large nuts holding bottom of strut to knuckle/carrier (These bolts also control camber, they will have to be loosened when the car is re-aligned)
  6. Re-attach sway bar end-link
  7. Put on wheel
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Alignment Removing the struts may have a SIGNIFICANT effect on the alignment of your car. Whenever the struts are removed the car should be taken to an alignment professional to ensure that the alignment is within spec (unless it's an autocross car of course!). Driving with any alignment outside of manufacturer's specifications can be VERY DANGEROUS.

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PLEASE! Be safe when working on your car. Also, read my DISCLAIMER before you go and say, "...well Randy said to do it this way!"

A few tips to keep you safe:
Always support the car with jackstands when raised, never work under a car with only a jack supporting it.
Make sure the car is stable on the stands before crawling under it. Hip-check it a few times first.
Avoid working near moving parts (belts, etc.), save your fingers.
Always torque down bolts to specified torques in the Toyota Service Manual.
Know your Jack Points!


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